Rafting on the Tara River in Montenegro

EDIT 8/28/2010: Melodye pointed out that I was so expressive of my dislike for the late/loud music that it made it sound like I didn't like the trip. I've moderated my comments below to give a more accurate picture and just reiterate that I had a *great* time!

We got together a group of friends last weekend and headed north. We left in the early afternoon and traveled about 5 hours to the border between Montenegro and Bosnia. Just past there we turned in DMD camp. We rafted about 4 hours on the Tara River (deepest gorge in Europe) the next day (Saturday) and then on Sunday some of our group left after breakfast and others of us stayed on to raft the River Drin for another 4 hours before we left to arrive home in Albania late Sunday night.

With all meals, 2 nights accommodations (albeit in somewhat primitive conditions), and rafting the cost was 70 euros per person for those who left early (5 meals, 2 nights, 4 hours rafting) and 90 euros per person for those who stayed later (6 meals, 2 nights, 8 hours rafting).

Great fun was had by all and it was definitely a worthwhile team-building experience. I would definitely go again (and hope we will do it soon!)

Our particular package (offer #2 and #3) included about 25 km of rafting on the Tara (day 1) and then about 25 km on the Drina (day 2). Each took about 4 hours. Our guide both days explained that in the Spring the water was 3-5 meters higher (!!!) and the 4-hour trip would take closer to half an hour! Talk about adrenaline rush! (But also talk about cold... Fortunately they have wet-suits you can wear if you want them -- we didn't need them in August but would definitely appreciate them in May!) Children younger than 14 need not apply during the Spring, though...

Some tho'ts for those who might want to follow:

• It takes about 5.5 hours to travel from Tirana to the camp (5 hours if you leave at 5am and don't have to worry about traffic, 6 or more hours if you lolligag on the road). Be careful as you exit Podgoric as there are limited signs and it's easy to get off track (you're heading for Niksic).
• There are tons of rafting places and camps up there. We were pleased on the whole with ours (www.tara-rafting.com).
• GOOD POINTS:

1. Their food was very good and plenty of it. Very satisfying and enjoyable.
2. The beds were reasonably comfortable
3. The rafting equipment was quite acceptable (incl water shoes, life vests, optional wet suits, etc.)
4. Our guides were good (esp. Ivan, the only person there, seemingly, that spoke English)

• BAD POINTS:

1. Breakfast is served at 9am and lunch at 5pm. That's a long wait for little guys (we took our 3 sons, ages 11, 9, and 6) ... and for their daddy too!!!
2. One guide/skipper on the first day figured his job was to control the raft and take smoking breaks, somehow forgetting that the people on the raft are supposed to have fun, too. After speaking to him he got a lot better, but it was disappointing that some of the group had a pretty boring time for the first half of the trip...
3. The bathrooms have a nasty habit of periodically wafting rather unpleasant odors in the direction of the cabins. Not constant, but often enough to be unpleasant. 'nuf said.
4. Supper is served about 9:30pm which is OK ... but about halfway thru dinner the MUSIC starts. I know that writing in all-caps is considered SHOUTING in the web-o-sphere, but I cannot call what was coming through the speakers anything other than MUSIC!!! Then about 10:30pm they turned up the VOLUME. And it didn't stop until 2am. (BIG FROWNY FACE, WITH TEARS ROLLING DOWN HIS CHEEKS!) Very few of our group slept decently at all ...

Really when it comes down to it the only negative I'm really concerned about is the music and it's definitely something I would inquire about and make a factor in choosing our camps in the future... When you're strenuously exercising throughout the day (paddling the raft) you really need a good night's sleep. If you're the type that enjoys loud music and late nights (uh, oh, am I showing my age here?) then this won't be a problem. But if you're either too young or too old to enjoy/endure that then you'll want to check carefully on this before you go.

Other notes...

The trip up thru Montenegro was beautiful -- the last half hour or so you are going thru Durmitor national park alongside a body of water that is just stunning. (The water is from a dammed-up river that fills the valley.) Some breath-taking views, photo opportunities, etc.

The sleeping arrangements in the camps are pretty much a board with a piece of foam on top of it. Not uncomfortable, but don't expect to count stars over the entrance of the hotel... Hey, it's camping - what do you expect?!?

Similarly the bathrooms are communal and half western/half squatty-potty. Showers are stalls open to the world with a shower curtain that mostly reaches from one side to the other. It's good to have a friend standing outside keeping the curtain closed... :-)

The camp organizers encourage you to go and get your rafting equipment (shoes, vests) after breakfast. It's worth your while to go before or during breakfast -- otherwise you end up with a pretty "picked-over" pile of stuff there...

On our way back to Albania we stopped at several other campgrounds just for comparison. We asked prices and got brochures and web-sites and the whole works. After looking at all that stuff we figured we probably would have still chosen the same place ... except for the music. Knowing that we will definitely check with other camps before we go again and find out what their "party policy" is...

Other web-sites you might want to look into:

• http://www.rafting-tara.com
• http://www.tara-rafting.com
• http://www.montings.com
• http://www.tara-tour.com
• http://www.raftingtara.com